Hyperpigmentation - treatment and prevention

Hyperpigmentation is a common skin concern and one of the toughest skincare challenges to tackle. It can appear on anyone's skin, and as we age, it becomes more and more visible. This issue is particularly well-known in Korea and rest of Asia, and that’s why Korean cosmetics offer many products designed to address hyperpigmentation. In this article, we will talk about what hyperpigmentation is, why it occurs, how to prevent it, and how to treat it. ✨ At the end, we’ll also share our product recommendations for different skin types. ❤️

What is Hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation refers to a variety of pigmentation disorders on the skin. It comes in different forms, including post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), melasma, which is mainly hormonal and age spots that appear over time. Hyperpigmentation can occur in all skin tones, from fair to dark, so this issue truly affects everyone!

Why Does Hyperpigmentation Occur?

Our skin contains melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color, which is produced by special cells called melanocytes located in the epidermis. These melanocytes can become overactive when triggered by things like inflammation (such as acne), hormones, and UV radiation. When this happens, an enzyme called tyrosinase starts overproducing pigment in melanosomes, which then transfer to the surface of the skin, showing up as dark spots or patches. Are you still with me?

Genes also play a role—certain people and ethnic groups have a stronger tendency to develop hyperpigmentation. Research has shown that hyperpigmentation is especially challenging for individuals with darker skin types. Pregnancy and certain hormonal medications can also trigger hyperpigmentation, particularly melasma.

Prevention: The Key to Healthy Skin

The best way to manage skin health is to focus on prevention. ❤️ Especially when it comes to hyperpigmentation, which is one of the most persistent skin concerns that takes time—and in some cases, money—to treat. So, let’s start with the basics!

We can’t control our genes, but we can take preventive measures to avoid hyperpigmentation: using sunscreen. UV radiation is one of the most common causes of hyperpigmentation, so sunscreen is absolutely essential—regardless of your skin tone!

So, tip number 1 is: use sunscreen. 🌞

Additionally, it’s good to minimize activities that can cause inflammation. These include popping pimples, excessive fiddling with the skin, and rough handling (like using comedone extractors and other at-home tools), which can lead to skin inflammation.

Treatment: Several Ways to Brighten the Skin

Treating hyperpigmentation can be approached from several angles: prevention, reducing melanin production, and encouraging skin regeneration. We covered prevention in the previous section, and now let’s go over the other two approaches.

There are many ingredients that have been researched and found to help with hyperpigmentation. In Korea, products containing these ingredients are often labeled as "brightening" or even "whitening," but their primary purpose is to even out skin tone and treat hyperpigmentation. Some of the most researched ingredients that inhibit the action of tyrosinase (that enzyme we mentioned earlier) include:

• Ascorbic acid (good old vitamin C)
• also other vitamin C derivatives, though they haven’t been studied as extensively as pure ascorbic acid, they can still be beneficial
• Hydroquinone (not allowed in the EU)
• Alpha Arbutin (a safer relative of hydroquinone)
• Glabridin, found in licorice root
• Azelaic acid
• Niacinamide in high concentrations (<5%)
• Rice

Another way to tackle hyperpigmentation is to promote skin renewal—things like chemical exfoliation and retinoids can help with this. These treatments alone may not be enough to fully treat hyperpigmentation, but they can be quite effective in addition, especially retinoids, which work deeper in the skin.

The best results are achieved by combining all these methods: prevention, tyrosinase inhibitors, and enhanced skin regeneration.

An example skin care routine for a hyperpigmentation sufferer:

• gentle cleansing: for example: hwarang bellflower cleansing balm and the gently exfoliating and soothing ongredient's gel cleanser
• toner/essence, for example: a toner suitable for dry skin is Anua's rice and ceramide containing toner or a toner suitable for oily skin About Me C-vitamin containing toner pads
• serum: in the morning Cosrx serum containing 23% pure vitamin C or Axis-Y dark spot correcting glow serum containing 5% niacinamide --> in the evening choose serum containing retinol and licorice root like Some By Mi retinol intense serum
• sunscreen: skin soothing SKIN1004 tea-trica sun milk spf 50
• in the evening instead of sunscreen, use a soothing moisturizer for the skin, e.g. Purito Wonder Releaf unscented face cream 

Keep in mind that treating hyperpigmentation takes time, so be patient and allow your skin the time it needs. ❤️ The skin undergoes a complete renewal cycle which takes approximately 2 months, so it’s important to give it at least 2 months before expecting to see  visible results. 

(In very severe cases, when hyperpigmentation is especially intense, it’s possible to seek medical help and get a prescription medication for the condition. Laser treatments performed at clinics are also an effective option for treating hyperpigmentation.)

References:

Dr. Wong, M. The Science of Beauty. 6/2024. Pages 115-116. "How can I treat dark spots and uneven pigment?" Accessed 6th November 2024.

Dr. Yoo, J. Differential diagnosis and management of hyperpigmentation, Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, Volume 47, Issue 2, 1 February 2022, pages 251–258. Accessed 6th November 2024. https://doi.org/10.1111/ced.14747